Ghibli Museum (Mitaka no Mori Jiburi Bijutsukan, Mitaka Forest Ghibli Museum) is a commercial museum featuring the Japanese anime work of Studio Ghibli. Located in Inokashira Park in Mitaka, a western suburb of Tokyo, Japan, it opened in 2001.The museum is a fine arts museum, but does not take the concept of a usual fine arts museum. With many features that are child-oriented and a sprawling and occasionally mazelike interior, the museum is a playfully created place. Centered around the motto appearing on the museum's website "Let's become lost children together" (Maigo ni narō yo, isshoni?), or 'let's lose our way together' as it is translated in the English leaflet. It has no set path or order of viewing. It seems to be primarily a Japanese tourist location, as though the museum brochure contains a variety of languages, the signs within the museum are in Japanese only.
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A Guide to Buying Tickets and Getting There
Get on the Nekobasu!
Buying Tickets
Since the Ghibli Museum is extremely popular with Japan residents and foreigners alike, a reservation voucher must be purchased in advance. The admission fees are listed here. You can actually buy your voucher from outside Japan, see this page for info. Within Japan, you can buy it using one of the following ways as listed on this page: (1) via the Japan Travel Bureau (JTB); (2) via Lawson convenience store's Loppi stations; and (3) via LawsonTicket.com telephone and online service.
Getting There
From Tokyo, Kanda or Shinjuku stations, take the JR Chuo Line to Mitaka, it's approximately 20 minutes away if you take the train from Shinjuku in Tokyo. Take the South Exit and walk along the Tamagawa Josui "Waterworks" to the museum (see map here) or make like a Totoro and take the Cat Bus (or the "Nekobasu"). The fare is 200 yen for a one-way trip and 300 yen for round-trip; half-price for children under 12 years old. Please take note that the museum does not have a parking lot.
The Museum: Outside
The first thing you'll notice when you get to the museum is that it doesn't look like any museum (or building, for that matter) that you've ever been to. There's also a sculpture garden on the rooftop featuring one of the major attractions, a gigantic cast-iron Laputa Robot Soldier.
The unusual structure was designed by Hayao Miyazaki himself and, as we saw in the official commemorative Ghibli Museum DVD (subtitled in English) we bought, the building's design was inspired by the quaint cliff-top village of Calcata, Italy where walkways are narrow and maze-like and houses don't have definite form but instead follow the natural structure of the cliff they're perched upon.
Before you enter, you have to exchange your voucher with the actual ticket - a film strip featuring three frames from a Studio Ghibli film. Cool, huh? The ticket will give you one-time access to the Saturn Theatre where you can view a museum-exclusive short film. (They have three 15-minute screenings per schedule, only one of which you can watch during the two-hour tour. My husband Arnold and I got to see a My Neighbor Totoro sequel called "Mei and the Kitten Bus" that's just as adorable and whimsical as the original.)
The Museum: Inside
The interior of the museum is as playful and unusual as the outside and once you step in, you'll want to begin identifying scenes from Ghibli films in the intricate stained glass windows and wall and ceiling murals. It's designed in such a way that there is no definite path to follow and the thrill is in losing your way around it. In fact, it's like entering Totoro's world.
The building features two floors connected through staircases as well as a metallic spiral staircase and an old-fashioned elevator. Images and tiny details from our favorite Studio Ghibli movies are scattered everywhere - on the walls, floors and ceiling, on banisters, even on the faucet knobs in the bathroom - so be careful not to miss them.
On the first floor are interactive exhibits detailing the animation process. One amazing display, the "Bouncing Totoro Zoetrope", shows how images are animated using strobe lights. This video presentation by renowned interactive media artist Toshio Iwai shows a bit of it (from minutes 1:10 to 1:30). Other stations consist of layered cell diorama studies and 3D prototypes of characters in sequential motion. The Saturn Theatre is also on this floor.
On the second floor are rooms patterned after what their art and design studios must be like: shelves upon shelves with photo albums of reference materials and art books, walls tacked with actual storyboards and real background art, bottles and bottles of paint of every Pantone color imaginable, couches, desks with ashtrays brimming with cigarette butts, etc etc etc.
The third floor houses the featured exhibit for the year, and for 2006, they're showcasing the works of Aardman Animations, particularly their work on Wallace and Gromit. Storyboards, sketches, animation studies and actual clay models and plaster molds for "A Grand Day Out", "A Close Shave", "The Wrong Trousers", and "The Curse of the Were-Rabbit" were on display. There's also a "Cat Bus Room" where kids ages 5 and below can play, and a children's reading room. "Mamma Aiuto", the museum gift shop, is also on this level.
Photography inside the museum is not allowed so here's a link to a photoessay of the museum's opening party in 2001. It has a few shots of the interiors.
After The Tour
You're allotted two hours to tour the museum afterwhich the next batch of tourists will be let in. You can stay and take photos outside or on the rooftop or relax at the bright-yellow-and-red Straw Hat Cafe - a reference to "My Neighbor Totoro"'s lead character Mei-chan's headgear of choice - where they serve home-style cold and hot meals, snacks and desserts.Touring this museum is a fantastic opportunity any Studio Ghibli fan won't want to miss. For my husband Arnold and me, it's probably the closest we'll ever get to meeting the genius Hayao Miyazaki so it's an experience we'll definitely cherish forever.
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